All of my muzzle brakes are made using heat treated 416 stainless steel or grade 5 titanium. The 416 stainless runs between 28 and 32 Rc and is the same material used for most stainless steel barrels made today. All threads are single point cut in a CNC turning center or thread milled in a CNC mill to 2b specs. I will open brakes to any caliber the customer requests. There is no one size fits all here. I can also taper or turn a brake to a specified diameter and/or Cerakote.
As a general rule the larger diameter the more effective the brake is. So if you don't mind having the brake larger then the barrel and/or tapering it to your barrel rather than having it flush with the barrel, you'll have a more effective brake with a larger diameter. There is a noticeable difference between the Baby Beast and Lil Beast brakes on magnum calibers. That is why I usually recommend the larger of the 2. The port height is 30% taller on the Lil Beast and port height has a direct correlation to recoil reduction.
With my muzzle brakes, after about 50grs of powder you will reduce more recoil with a 4 port brake then a 3 port. This is powder charge weights not total capacity. This means short action non-magnum calibers like .243 win, 6.5 Creedmoor, and .308 are best for 3 ports. The transition from 4 to 5 ports is about 65-70grs. 4 ports tend to be all that is needed for the smaller magnums and most of the long action non-magnum cases. There is a benefit to a 5 port on cases about the size of a 300 win mag and up.
Since I get these questions all the time I'll throw them in here. For the smaller diameter sporter barrels in large magnums (300wm, 300RUM, 338 RUM, etc) I generally recommend Super Baby Beast 5 port brakes since they are a Lil Beast turned to .800" and they perform better than the Baby Beast. As for 6.5 Creedmoor's. I'd do a 3 port Super Baby Beast for the smaller barrels and 3 port Beast CF or Beast for the larger barrels.
